A gentle boat cruise on the Okavango from Hakusembe River Lodge, with drinks at sunset, allow you to watch wildlife and birds from nearby. Photo: Mariana Balt.

Some stunning campsites along the western side of the Kavango Panhandle

Posted in The Travel Thread by Mariana Balt on 18 June, 2025 at 11:31 a.m.
Read more from the pen of Mariana Balt HERE.

The western edge of the Kavango Panhandle is one of Namibia’s best-kept secrets. Tucked between Rundu and the Botswana border near Shakawe, this lush stretch of riverfront wilderness offers a quieter, more personal experience of the Okavango River before it fans out into the famous delta. Here, tall palms and broad-leafed trees fringe the water’s edge, birdlife is abundant, and hippos grunt under a full moon. It’s the perfect place for slow travel, whether you're self-driving through Namibia or linking up with the Caprivi and Botswana circuits. If you’re heading this way, here are some incredible riverside campsites along the western side of the Kavango Panhandle to consider.

Ngepi Camp - Eco-luxury meets river jungle magic
Located just south of Divundu, Ngepi Camp has earned cult status among overlanders for its quirky character and commitment to sustainability. Raised platforms, open-air treehouse bathrooms, and an iconic floating swimming cage make Ngepi more than just a place to rest your head.

Left: Camping next to the Okavango at Ngepi Camp. Top right: The sun rises over the Okavango at Ngepi Camp. Bottom right: Watching elephants in Bwabwata National Park from Ngepi Camp. Photos: Mariana Balt.

The campsites are set under shady trees with river views, and the vibe is laid-back and creative. Whether you’re joining a mokoro trip, going fishing, or watching otters from the bar deck, it’s a true river haven.

Don’t miss: The floating pool in the Okavango River - perfectly safe and totally unique.

Mobola Island Lodge - Peace and privacy on your own island
A little further west, Mobola Island Lodge offers a secluded and natural setting that feels far away from it all. Connected by rustic bridges, the private island is a tranquil base with grassy, spacious campsites right on the water. Canoes are available for guests who want to paddle around the island channels, while evenings are best spent around a fire listening to nightjars call.

Don’t miss: The Mobola craft gin distillery - small batches, big flavour.

Rainbow River Lodge - Friendly and accessible
Set on the riverbank just west of Divundu, Rainbow River Lodge is ideal for self-drivers looking for reliable comfort without the crowds. With neat, level campsites and lush lawns, it’s a relaxed stopover with great river access. There’s good birdwatching right from camp, and the staff can arrange excursions to Mahango Game Reserve or sunset cruises.

Don’t miss: An early morning coffee at the water’s edge while African fish eagles call.

Shametu River Lodge - Riverside luxury with Popa Falls nearby
If you’re after a bit more refinement, Shametu River Lodge strikes the perfect balance between camping and comfort. Located just upstream from Popa Falls, it offers well-kept campsites with shared ablutions, as well as tented chalets for those mixing accommodation styles. A raised wooden deck serves as the dining and sundowner spot, with sweeping views over the river.

Don’t miss: A guided trip to the nearby Popa Falls - more rapids than falls, but scenic, nonetheless.

Hakusembe River Lodge - The perfect gateway from Rundu
While not strictly within the panhandle, Hakusembe lies just west of Rundu and is a great place to kick off your journey into the Kavango region.

Left: Hakusembe River Lodge, a Gondwana Collection lodge just west of Rundu and a great place to kick off your journey into the Kavango region. Right: Don’t miss a sundowner cruise from Hakusembe Lodge. Photos: Mariana Balt.
Left: Your sunset cruise at Hakusembe River Lodge offers a sunset to dream of. Right: Full moon over the Okavango at Hakusembe River Lodge. Photos: Mariana Balt.

Its manicured gardens, shady riverside camping spots, and peaceful setting make it a favourite among couples and overland families alike. It’s also a good base for last-minute shopping or stocking up before heading deeper into the bush.

Don’t miss: A gentle boat cruise with drinks at sunset, watching fishermen at work along the banks.

Xaro Lodge - A wild escape just across the water
Though technically on the Botswana side of the river near Shakawe, Xaro Lodge is accessed by boat and shares the same channel system as western Kavango. For those combining Namibia and Botswana, it’s a luxurious and remote-feeling stopover. Accommodation is lodge-style, but the experience - with trails through dense forest and boat-based birding - is perfect for travellers chasing that wild edge.

Don’t miss: Spotting Pel’s fishing owl at dawn, a prized bird for any twitcher.

Ndhovu Safari Lodge - Floating tents and riverside wildlife
Right on the edge of the Mahango Game Reserve, Ndhovu Safari Lodge blends natural beauty with character. Campsites sit directly on the river under large trees, and there's even a floating tent option for those who want to drift to sleep surrounded by hippos. The lodge offers game drives into Mahango and boat trips along the Kavango - all run by knowledgeable local guides.

Don’t miss: The early evening river cruise - excellent for spotting elephants coming to drink.

Mahangu Safari Lodge - Ideal base for game viewing
For easy access to Mahango Game Reserve and nearby Bwabwata National Park, Mahangu Safari Lodge is hard to beat.

Left: A Southern Carmine Bee-eater in Mahango Game Reserve. Right: Elephant roadblock in the Mahango Game Reserve.
Photos: Mariana Balt

The riverfront campsites are shaded and spacious, and the lodge’s restaurant and bar offer a lovely place to relax between drives. Expect friendly service, reliable infrastructure, and proximity to wildlife.

Don’t miss: Driving yourself through Mahango in the early morning - expect to see elephants, sable, and even lechwe.

The western side of the Kavango Panhandle offers something few places in southern Africa can match: a blend of lush landscapes, off-the-beaten-path charm, and easy access to water and wildlife. Whether you're a minimalist camper or prefer a bit of luxury under canvas, the campsites in this part of Namibia offer a beautiful, peaceful window into the upper reaches of the Okavango.

Left: A Pied Kingfisher eyes his next meal in the Okavango. Right: A Mokoro trip on the Okavango is a must-do when you travel in this region. Photos: Mariana Balt.
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