An African sunset one could never forget; and (top left and right): staying in a Meru tent at Swamp Stop next to the Okavango Delta, and trolling for tigerfish. Photos: Mariana Balt.

Waterways, warthogs and wonder: A journey into Botswana

Posted in The Travel Thread by Mariana Balt on 9 May, 2025 at 7:03 a.m.
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Nata and Mata Mata, Makgadikgadi and Kgalagadi, Marienfluss and Mariental, Van Zyl’s Pass and Van Zylsrus…

Place names like these often dominate our thoughts and are where we love to head when a holiday is being discussed and should be included in many an itinerary. 

If our faithful 1998 Nissan 2.7 Turbo Diesel 4x4, no longer young, and not equipped with all the modern gadgets, can still do this, it is surely negotiable with any vehicle with proper ground clearance.

So, close your eyes and travel with me on an epic Botswana overland journey - en route to Namibia.

Firstly, make sure you are adequately equipped with the essentials: extra diesel and water, camping equipment, provisions (just not meat. Remember, due to strict veterinary regulations, taking meat into both Botswana and Namibia is prohibited), fishing gear, cameras, and a fridge with… well, essential fluids. 

We favour the road via Mokopane (Potgietersrus) to Groblersbrug despite it being long and frustrating due to the rural traffic of taxis, unroadworthy vehicles and animals. Even your amusement at warning signs for warthogs will wear thin as you may encounter lots of these animals right next to the road. 

The bridge at Groblersbrug and (right) traffic between Mokopane and the Groblersbrug border post. Photos: Mariana Balt.
 

The convenient KwaNokeng Lodge along the Limpopo River at Botswana’s Martins Drift border post is an ideal overnight stop, preparing you for day two.

Aptly named “at the river” in Setswana, KwaNokeng serves as a convenient stopover for travellers heading to destinations like the Okavango Delta, Chobe, or the Makgadikgadi Pans. The lodge offers a variety of accommodations to suit different preferences. Guests can choose from river-facing cottages, luxury tents elevated on stilts, thatched chalets, safari tents, and well-equipped campsites.

An on-site restaurant and bar, situated on a deck under a majestic Nyala Berry tree, offer delightful dining experiences with panoramic river views. You can also engage in various activities such as quad biking, boat cruises along the Limpopo River, game drives, and fishing.

The lodge's friendly atmosphere makes it an ideal spot for families, couples, and solo travellers seeking both adventure and relaxation in Botswana's picturesque Tuli region.

On Botswana roads, be aware that donkeys, cattle and horses seemingly feel compelled to cross the road the moment they hear an engine roar. Thus, with lots of braking and accelerating, you will make your way through Francistown (where you can buy that tasty meat for the evening) to the Nata Bird Sanctuary, a perfect (wild) camping site from where you can explore the Makgadikgadi Pans. 

Nata Bird Sanctuary camping provides basic amenities like braai areas, hot showers, and flush toilets. Set near the park entrance and the A3 road, the campsite is shaded by trees and offers a rustic experience close to nature. However, be aware that the proximity to the main road can result in some noise disturbances.

The short dirt road from Nata Bird Sanctuary’s campsite to the nearest of the Makgadikgadi pans.
​​​​​Pitching camp at Nata Bird Sanctuary. Photos: Mariana Balt.

The sanctuary is renowned for its rich birdlife, especially during the rainy season when the Sua Pan fills with water, attracting thousands of flamingos, pelicans, and over 165 other bird species. Campers can enjoy self-guided drives to viewpoints overlooking the pans, offering magnificent sunset vistas. It's advisable to bring cash for entrance and camping fees, as card payments are not accepted.

During the wet season, access roads may become challenging, and a 4x4 vehicle is recommended.

If you are lucky and the pan is full of water, you might be greeted by a spectacular sight: thousands of flamingos and possibly also a colony of pelicans on the edge of this extraordinary mass of water.  Get your camera ready, as it will work overtime. Enjoy a sundowner with a camera in the other hand, because you don’t get a sunset like that every day.

An African sunset one could never forget and (rigth) sundowners overlooking the pan.
This time full of water, more often a dry salt pan. Photos: Mariana Balt.

The next day will take you past Maun, from where you can spend some time, head to Moremi (but this is worth a story on its own) or southwest to Sehithwa and west past the Okavango Delta to Sepopa.

Don’t pass Swamp Stop, a.k.a. Okavango River Camp (350 km north of Maun and 50 km south of the Caprivi Strip). In fact, plan for a stay of at least two days.

Cruising down one of the swamp channels.
Staying in a Meru tent at Swamp Stop next to the Okavango Delta. Phtotos: Mariana Balt.

Also known as Okavango River Camp, Swamp Stop is a hidden gem serving as a gateway to the Okavango Delta. It offers a blend of comfort and adventure for travellers seeking an authentic African safari experience.

A variety of lodging options suit different preferences: Air-conditioned chalets, and en-suite rooms equipped with modern amenities for a comfortable stay or en-suite Meru tents offering a close-to-nature experience without compromising comfort. The riverfront campsites are spacious, with power points, water access, and fire pits.

The camp features two swimming pools, a licensed bar, a restaurant, and an elevated viewing platform overlooking the river.

Available activities and experiences include traditional Mokoro (canoe) and boat trips through the delta's waterways, with opportunities for birdwatching and wildlife sightings, as well as fishing safaris, targeting species like the renowned tiger fish.

Guided walks on nearby islands and birdwatching excursions can also be arranged.

The next not-to-be-missed stop is Drotsky’s Cabins near Shakawe, where you can experience the luxury of a lovely campsite under huge trees.

Camping at Drotsky's Cabins, along the serene Okavango River near Shakawe, offers travellers a tranquil retreat. The campsite features 20 spacious pitches shaded by indigenous trees, each equipped with 220v power points, electric lights, and water taps.

Nearing the campsite at Drotsky’s Cabins where several water-related activities await (right). Photos: Mariana Balt.

Clean ablution facilities with hot showers and flush toilets ensure comfort for campers. While the campsite itself doesn't offer Wi-Fi, guests can access internet services at the main lodge, which also houses a restaurant, bar, and swimming pool.

Evenings can be spent around the communal boma fire, sharing stories under the starlit sky.

Beyond the campsite, Drotsky's Cabins serves as a gateway to lots of activities. Guided boat trips on the Okavango River provide opportunities to spot diverse wildlife, including hippos, crocodiles, and the elusive sitatunga antelope.

Bird enthusiasts can look forward to sightings of species like the Pel's Fishing Owl and carmine bee-eaters. Fishing is a popular pastime here, with the river teeming with bream, tigerfish, and barbel.

For those keen on cultural and historical exploration, excursions to the nearby Tsodilo Hills, a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its ancient rock art, and the Mahango Game Park in Namibia are highly recommended.

Before we continue our Okavango River adventure and enter Namibia at the Mohembo border post, let’s take a rest here and contemplate the novelty of what we have already experienced thus far...

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